Tunisia 2024 | Chasing mirages

23 October – 1 November, 2024

Texts and photos by Matteo Marinelli | R.T. Earth

View of the Chott el-Jerid

A DIFFERENT JOURNEY

It’s been exactly one year since our first trip to discover the Tunisian desert and only six months since the last one. During the first two journeys, we began to understand how to move and focused especially on optimizing the performance and space of our vehicle. This fieldwork allowed us to test new products designed for this type of use, improving comfort and practicality during the journey.

We are also learning how to navigate this terrain and how to start recognizing our reference points. We notice small changes along the roads, in the towns or villages we pass through. Everything is beginning to feel a bit more familiar, starting with the local guides who welcome us with great hospitality and friendly enthusiasm.

This time, our itinerary led us to new and, in some ways, unexpected places. But, as always, the goal remains the same: to cross a corner of this sea of sand and embrace new emotions.

Tunisia, October 2024

After leaving Tunis, the convoy headed towards Tozeur for the night. After a hearty breakfast, we hit the road again to reach the Mountain Oases. Here, we parked our vehicles and ventured into the Tamaghza Canyons, a deep fissure carved over millennia by water erosion. We followed a circular route that ultimately led us to the base of a small but delightful waterfall. Along the way, a guide explained the geological formation of the canyon and the centuries-old lush palm grove, a green clearing nestled in the ochre yellow of the mountainous desert.

Towards Douz. The initial plan was to cross the tracks of the Chott el-Jerid, but nature surprised us once again. Unseasonal and heavy rains from previous weeks had filled the Chott basin with water, forcing us to take the P16 highway across it. Though on asphalt, the view was priceless: for about 47 kilometers, we were enveloped by the sky, as if traveling on a mirror. Stretches of sand and salt emerged, creating a constantly shifting tableau, and in the distance, we caught sight of mirages for the first time. Locally, these are called the “Tozeur trains”, as they create the optical illusion of a small railway convoy.

THE SAHARA

Arriving in Douz, our last chance to refuel before heading into the Sahara, we listened to Fabio (SEALAND ADVENTURE) during the briefing, where he shared tips for driving on sand. With our compass needle pointing south, we set off towards Tembaine (a place we had visited last April, enjoying the view from its summit). Arriving here just a few hours before sunset, we barely had time to enjoy a good coffee before continuing to our first camp. We lit a large fire and watched Amour and Saber prepare bread in the traditional way—and why not?—also roasted chestnuts.

The following days were spent among the sand, seeking the long-awaited thrill. We conquered dunes and high, sinuous crests with some difficulty, facing mechanical issues and the inevitable bogging down of the convoy. We followed routes we had begun to learn, which brought back memories of past trips, laughter, and conversations shared around the fire with friends and fellow travelers.

When it’s time to return, emotions are conflicting. Part of us wants to continue exploring new directions, while the more rational side pulls us back toward a hot shower to wash off the sand and, above all, to return home!

CHENINI

Back on the move for the final legs of our journey, we left the Ksar Ghilane oasis—and with it, the desert—heading northeast. A mix of asphalt and little-traveled tracks brought us to Chenini, a gem perfectly camouflaged atop two promontories, rich in history and legends.

Ancient Chenini was built in the 12th century as a fortified granary village between two peaks to defend against raiders and protect the precious grain. Remarkably, some structures are still used today to store this vital resource and serve the population in the valley below. Chenini is also home to the marvelous Mosque of the Seven Sleepers, nestled between the two peaks. Just below, in the valley, lies the Berber cemetery.

The mosque is dedicated to seven Christians from Ephesus who were martyred in this very place, later becoming saints of Islam, celebrated in many Islamic tales and mentioned in the Quran.

The mosque also offers the best vantage point to take in the valley’s view. What we now call a valley was once the bed of an ancient sea, with the indelible marks of water erosion still visible. Another curiosity about Chenini is its silhouette, which, from a certain angle, resembles a crouching camel (with two humps) whose head points directly toward Mecca.

FINAL STOP AND LAST CURIOSITY

We left Chenini for Matmata to relax on our final evening at a troglodyte-style hotel carved into the rock—a place we enjoy revisiting whenever the itinerary brings us to the area. The next morning, we set off early to return to Tunis.

As we sped up the winding roads to the top of a hill, we couldn’t help but notice a life-size Tataouinea hannibalis, a sauropod from the Early Cretaceous period (110 million years ago). Its remains were discovered at the foot of that hill in 2011 and later classified and certified in 2015.

The ferry slowly brought us back home with a new experience to treasure and another adventure to recount. I don’t know where the next trip will take us, but it will undoubtedly enrich us with new experiences and sights to see. Perhaps it will be Tunisia, October 2025!

Test/Photo: ©Matteo Marinelli

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