Tunisia 2023 | Between Sand and Sky

 

October 28 – November 6, 2023

Texts and photos by Matteo Marinelli R.T. Earth

Why don’t we go to the desert? Why not!” That’s how we chose Tunisia as the destination for this new type of journey.

A NEW TYPE OF JOURNEY

Unlike previous years, when HERERO 4X4 exclusively offered trips dedicated to exploring our territory, in 2023, the company has committed to developing new accessories to provide more livability, practicality, and comfort, especially for those who make these vehicles their home on the road. A new design that brings these old Land Rovers a bit more into the modern era without losing the charm of the classic. So, what better than the challenges of the desert to test these accessories?!

TUNISIA 2023 – THE JOURNEY

When planning a trip, the first thing that comes to mind is to take a peek at a map. This simple action brings those who love these experiences into a unique dimension. In an instant, it already feels like we’re living the adventure, imagining what awaits us. With the help of industry experts, in our case, we relied on SEALAND ADVENTURE and OFF THE ROAD, we decided what to see and what kind of experience to live.

Like last year, a ship awaited us at the port. For 26 hours, it was a pleasant reunion of old friends ready to head to the Tunisian desert. Some on motorcycles, others with their off-road vehicles, and some with absurdly equipped campers, ready to cross the vast sea of sand.

After disembarking in Tunis in the afternoon, after customs procedures, our convoy headed to Hammamet for the first overnight stay in a hotel.

THE FIRST TASTE OF THE DESERT

Early wake-up to retrace Rommel’s path. The tracks of the small Chott led us to Ong Jmal, one of the most famous locations in the Star Wars set. The characteristic Hollywood structures still withstand the wind and sand after almost 50 years. Right overlooking Ong Jmal, participants began to practice with the sand and dunes of the area. Almost at sunset, we travel the track that led us to Tozeur. For the overnight stay, we stayed in a unique hotel located within a palm grove, which offered us the opportunity to sleep in characteristic stilts entirely made with palm logs, equipped with every comfort.

For two whole days, we venture into the heart of Tunisia heading south. We leave the palm groves of Tozeur early in the morning, where we notice the work of dozens of people rushing in the plantations to harvest dates and load them onto pickup trucks. Crossing the Chott di El Jerid, the largest salt lake in Tunisia, we head towards Douz. Here, we take advantage of the opportunity to refuel the vehicles and tanks and take a stroll for some purchases among the alleys of this dynamic city, the last one at the gates of the Sahara.

AT THE GATES OF THE SAHARA

We leave Douz. The track quickly takes us out of civilization. The ground is not entirely sandy yet, and the sand gives way to wide stretches of gravel. The first stretch is fast, quite fast, and also a lot of fun. Behind us, long lines of dust rise into the sky from our vehicles, but in an instant, the dust disappears, and the speed drops to the lower gears. The first small dunes radically change the landscape, and as we descend from a slightly higher one, as far as the eye can see, only sand and dunes lie ahead of us.

For two days, the shapes of the landscape change continuously. In the evening, we set up our camps surrounded by complete silence, not even the wind or the breeze makes a sound. When the full moon emerges, and the sight adjusts to its light, it becomes almost like daytime. Moving away from the camp, you can truly feel alone, just us, the sand, and the stars.

In the late afternoon of the second day, we arrive at Ain Ouadette, one of the southernmost oases. There, among the dunes, like walls of shrubs and small trees, they guard a pond of warm water. After a bath and some relaxation, we prepare for our last camp in the Tunisian Erg.

The return from the last camp was long and challenging. Crossing increasingly larger and more complex dunes, we reach the oasis of Ksar Ghilane, much more civilized with shops and markets of local products.

With a bit more leisure, we leave the oasis to head towards Chennini, an ancient Berber city currently a UNESCO World Heritage Site. After visiting the city, we head to the mountains until we reach Matmata, known for its troglodyte dwellings. We treat ourselves to the last overnight stay in a hotel carved into the rock, echoing the typical dwellings within this mountainous basin.

THE RETURN

At the first light of morning, we head to Hammamet to visit the city and explore the alleys of the Medina. White and blue dominate the narrow streets, creating countless glimpses. Climbing the towers of the walls provides a view of the sea and the dozens of fishing boats that, rocked by the waves, move in harmony.

The last stretch of asphalt leads us to the port for embarkation. Of this journey, like the others, people make the difference. Evenings spent by the fire or under the stars reveal new friendships or undoubtedly create new memories and stories to tell.

For me, who returned to Tunisia after about ten years among these sands and landscapes, what has always won me over is the silence of the night in the desert that blocks your senses and allows you to enjoy the view of the infinite.